Ices Plain & Fancy was voted the runner up for 冰淇淋 and custard in St. Louis within the 2015 Feast 50.
“I’ve been [making nitro soft ice cream] in restaurants for a long period,” says Max Crask, co-owner of Ices Plain & Fancy in St. Louis. “A great deal of restaurants get it done this way since they don’t hold the proper freezers. Frozen goodies gets old like other things, therefore if it sits around, it’s likely to crust up and stay gross. It’s really merely the best process to really make it.”
Crask, together with Ices co-owners Troika Brodsky, Matthew Deutschmann and Crask’s sister, Darla Crask, opened the store in the Shaw neighborhood of St. Louis last July.
“We’re an area frozen treats shop,” Brodsky says. “We love the fact that we’re seeing a similar faces day-in and day-out, and we’re learning our neighbors. We wouldn’t have the capacity to do what we’re doing right now if [the neighborhood] hadn’t embraced us so wholeheartedly.”
The shop’s name originates from a magazine of the same title by Agnes Marshall, a late 19th- and early 20th-century English culinary writer who has been nicknamed “the Queen of Ices,” who suggested preparing ice cream using liquid nitrogen, the shop’s specialty, produced by blending an frozen treats base with the gas within a stand mixer. From classic butter pecan to vegan-friendly, soy-based cherry cordial, everything is frozen-to-order right ahead of the customer, a cloud of smoke billowing from the stand-mixer bowl since the frozen treat takes shape.
“We’re not only making frozen goodies; we’re making frozen treats with liquid nitrogen and blowtorches,” Brodsky says. “It’s still frozen goodies; it’s the offerings people are used to, although the process itself, as well as looking really cool, provides a unique consistency, mouthfeel and flavor.”
Brodsky is likewise executive director of the St. Louis Brewers Guild, that has triggered collaborations with local 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Schlafly Beer breweries. Ices also collaborated with Sump Coffee in St. Louis to make The Back Up, which pairs the shop’s 三明治冰餅 with Sump’s coffee, plus coffee whipped cream as well as a dexlpky89 of coffee grounds. Ices even make a special nitro ice for dogs, with fifty percent from the profits benefiting Stray Rescue of St. Louis.
This summer, they at Ices not just celebrated its first anniversary, but also debuted its refurbished 1964 Divco milk truck (affectionately dubbed “Agnes”). With Agnes, Brodsky hopes Ices are able to park at events and expand its catering services.
“We feel really lucky being doing what we’re doing at this particular reason for period in St. Louis,” Brodsky says. “There’s so much potential, and people are very available to trying new stuff.”